It’s a few days now since Adam Ondra left the country and the dust has finally settled. Not so in the KSP office though where the requests for photographs, reports and comments from around the globe continue to come in to my inbox where there’s a wee backlog building up...
Helping to break big stories is an undeniable buzz and boy, did Ondra’s visit turn out to be big! I’ve resisted the urge to sex-up the headline on this blog entry but driving around this week (driving is when I mull these things over) some interesting one-liners have been floating around in my head: “King Wad slays
In the end I decided to keep it simple (stupid...) with a plain old “Didn’t he do well?”. And didn’t he just!
Here’s Ondra’s Scorecard...
Route |
Grade |
Crag |
Style |
Comments |
Northern Star |
F9a |
Kilney |
Redpoint |
1st repeat |
Northern Lights |
F9a |
Kilnsey |
Redpoint |
1st repeat |
Full Tilt |
F8b |
Kilnsey |
On-sight |
1st on-sight – narrowly missing out on True North |
Magnetic Fields |
F8b |
Malham |
On-sight |
1st on-sight |
Mandella |
F8b |
Kilnsey |
On-sight |
Previously on-sighted by McCLure |
Austrian Oak |
F8b |
Malham |
On-sight |
1st on-sight |
Totally Free II |
F8b |
Malham |
On-sight |
1st on-sight, finished in the rain |
Ecstasy |
F8a+/b |
Kilnsey |
On-sight |
1st on-sight |
Overnite Sensation |
F8a+ |
Malham |
On-sight |
1st on-sight? |
Zoolook |
F8a |
Malham |
On-sight |
1st on-sight? |
Raindogs |
F8a |
Malham |
On-sight |
2nd on-sight. 1st on-sight by Chris Sharma in 2009 |
And here’s Ondra’s W.I.P./Dropped/Sandbagged...
Route |
Grade |
Crag |
Outcome |
Comments |
Overshadow |
F8b |
Malham |
WIP |
Several (5?) redpoint attempts over three days |
True North |
F8c |
Kilney |
Dropped |
On-sight dropped high on final block |
Cry Freedom |
F8b+ |
Malham |
Dropped |
On-sight dropped on mid-height wall |
Predator |
F8b |
Malham |
On-sight |
On-sighted up to the 1st lower-off where Ondra stopped confusing this with the actual lower-off |
Energy Vampire |
F8a+ |
Malham |
On-sight |
On-sighted to belay but confusion on actual finish led to Ondra dropping out before the lower off was clipped |
W.I.P. = Work in Progress
So who else, I wonder, could match a work rate that produced two F9a’s in 3 days and a total of nine 8th grade on-sights in a week whilst working an F9a+ and narrowly missing out on on-sights of a further F8c, an F8b and an F8a+? Not many I’d suggest.
But as impressive as Ondra’s ticklist was however, it was his tax-list, ie those routes he didn’t complete or dropped, that I think gives an insight into the climbing here in the UK; so wit:
· Overshadow: hard for grade [F9a+], possibly F9b
· No on-sights harder than F8b – this from a guy who has on-sighted F8c+ overseas
So what conclusion should we draw and what, I wonder, is Steve McClure thinking about following Ondra’s visit? Well, I have an idea, but I guess we’ll have to wait for his comments till his next column in CLIMB…
Steve McClure - a.k.a King Wad (
Malham Cove - resplendent in sunlight - for those who haven't yet been…