It’s a few days now since Adam Ondra left the country and the dust has finally settled. Not so in the KSP office though where the requests for photographs, reports and comments from around the globe continue to come in to my inbox where there’s a wee backlog building up...

 

Helping to break big stories is an undeniable buzz and boy, did Ondra’s visit turn out to be big! I’ve resisted the urge to sex-up the headline on this blog entry but driving around this week (driving is when I mull these things over) some interesting one-liners have been floating around in my head: “King Wad slays UK’s hardest routes”..., or perhaps “Ondra: he came, he saw, he conquered”... or even “Czech Mate”... Ouch - that last one could go horridly wrong!

 

In the end I decided to keep it simple (stupid...) with a plain old “Didn’t he do well?”. And didn’t he just!

 

Here’s Ondra’s Scorecard...

Route

Grade

Crag

Style

Comments

Northern Star

F9a

Kilney

Redpoint

1st repeat

Northern Lights

F9a

Kilnsey

Redpoint

1st repeat

Full Tilt

F8b

Kilnsey

On-sight

1st on-sight – narrowly missing out on True North

Magnetic Fields

F8b

Malham

On-sight

1st on-sight

Mandella

F8b

Kilnsey

On-sight

Previously on-sighted by McCLure

Austrian Oak

F8b

Malham

On-sight

1st on-sight

Totally Free II

F8b

Malham

On-sight

1st on-sight, finished in the rain

Ecstasy

F8a+/b

Kilnsey

On-sight

1st on-sight

Overnite Sensation

F8a+

Malham

On-sight

1st on-sight?

Zoolook

F8a

Malham

On-sight

1st on-sight?

Raindogs

F8a

Malham

On-sight

2nd on-sight. 1st on-sight by Chris Sharma in 2009

 

And here’s Ondra’s W.I.P./Dropped/Sandbagged...

Route

Grade

Crag

Outcome

Comments

Overshadow

F8b

Malham

WIP

Several (5?) redpoint attempts over three days

True North

F8c

Kilney

Dropped

On-sight dropped high on final block

Cry Freedom

F8b+

Malham

Dropped

On-sight dropped on mid-height wall

Predator

F8b

Malham

On-sight

On-sighted up to the 1st lower-off where Ondra stopped confusing this with the actual lower-off

Energy Vampire

F8a+

Malham

On-sight

On-sighted to belay but confusion on actual finish led to Ondra dropping out before the lower off was clipped

W.I.P. = Work in Progress

 

So who else, I wonder, could match a work rate that produced two F9a’s in 3 days and a total of nine 8th grade on-sights in a week whilst working an F9a+ and narrowly missing out on on-sights of a further F8c, an F8b and an F8a+? Not many I’d suggest.

 

But as impressive as Ondra’s ticklist was however, it was his tax-list, ie those routes he didn’t complete or dropped, that I think gives an insight into the climbing here in the UK; so wit:

·        Overshadow: hard for grade [F9a+], possibly F9b

·        No on-sights harder than F8b – this from a guy who has on-sighted F8c+ overseas

 

So what conclusion should we draw and what, I wonder, is Steve McClure thinking about following Ondra’s visit? Well, I have an idea, but I guess we’ll have to wait for his comments till his next column in CLIMB…

 

Steve McClure - a.k.a King Wad (UK) - on the crux of Overshadow (F9a+) which is still un-repeated. The image captures the body tension and strength required to operate at the highest levels in today’s sport climbing theatre...

 

Malham Cove - resplendent in sunlight - for those who haven't yet been…